(A) 14 Step Season Prep: Step 10- Hanging Stands

I finally have all of our tree stands up and trimmed in for this fall. There are a few more stands that I will have to hang in late summer, for various reasons, but everything else is up and ready. You may be asking yourself why I have my stands up already. Let me explain why I do this and talk about stand placement.

Hanging Stands- I usually hang or move approximately 25 stands every year. Over the last five years I found it frustrating to try and hang all of these stands in late summer. August can be very hot and humid in Kansas. The woods are full of vegetation, ticks, bugs, snakes, and poison oak (a growing nemesis for me). It took a lot of time to hang and trim in the stands, so by the time I finished them, I wouldn't have much time to hunt the early season. Three years ago I started hanging my bedding area stands in the spring to avoid tipping off the deer in the fall. This worked really well for me and I loved having the stands already hung and brushed in, come deer season.

Over the last two years I have carried this idea over into all of my stands. Every spring I hang my stands and brush them in. You don't have to worry about scent, bumping deer, running chain saws, or fighting thick vegetation. The stands that I don't hang are in areas that I think they can be stolen. However, I still hang and brush in the stand. I just pull the stand down when I am finished. I also pull down stands that don't have removable straps. I don't want the straps to weather or stretch out as the tree grows. All the other hang on stands and ladder stands are left in place using tie wire.

I use a simple process that I should have thought about a long time ago. Once I have a stand hung in place, I take tie wire and triple it (you can also use a heavy gauge single strand). I use the tie wire to secure the stand in place on the tree. Then I remove all of the straps that secure the stand. I leave the cable and lock on the tree stand for an added safety measure. As I remove the straps, pull up rope, etc.- I place all of these items in a gallon size zip lock storage bag and label it with the stand number. If the stand has ladder climbing sticks, I will remove the sticks and hide them under a nearby log. I place the straps for the ladder sticks in the same zip lock bag. As I leave the tree stand location I will mark my access trail with reflective trail markers. Once deer season arrives and I hunt the stand for the first time, I will head out to the stand a half hour early with the zip lock bag and secure all the straps for the remaining season. The stand is already hung and trimmed in. Sounds easy, huh? Well, it is with a little planning and organization in the spring.

Be careful hanging ladder stands. When I am hanging a ladder stand I secure one end of my hoist rope to the seat of the ladder. I will then lean it up against the tree (this can be very difficult for one person). Make sure to step on he lowest rung of the ladder to set it in the ground. I will have my assistant hold the other end of the rope tight to keep the ladder secure against the tree as I climb. As they hold it against the tree I will secure it with the provided ratchet strap.

Here is a basic list of the tools that I use when hanging tree stands:
Pole saw, chain saw, hand saw, pull up rope, safety harness, fanny pack, back pack, zip lock bags, permanent marker, reflective trail markers, orange flagging, screw in steps, wind checker, compass, toilet paper, etc.

Stand types- I use four basic styles of tree stands. They are ladders, hang-ons, climbers, and the Lone Wolf Alpha (separate category for this one). For permanent use I utilize ladder stands and large hang-on stands. I especially like the ladder stands for areas that my Dad hunts. They are comfortable, easy to get in and out of, and safer. Occasionally I will also use a climbing tree stand to access a new hunting area.

The fourth style of stand that I love to use is the Lone Wolf Alpha hang-on. This stand is super light and easy to hang. It is extremely portable and adjustable too. I like to use these stands in areas that I only plan to hunt once or twice a year. They are also good for areas where a permanent stand may be stolen. If you can't afford a lot of stands then buy just one of these stands. Here is what you can do. Pick as many stand locations as you like. Hang this stand and trim in your shooting lanes. I like to use screw in steps on these stand set ups because you can leave them in the tree. I will then pull down the stand. Now you have multiple set ups to hunt based on deer travel, wind direction, etc. Just throw this stand up in the tree that you want to hunt. The tree is already prepared for you. I absolutely love this set up!

You can also easily use the Lone Wolf to hang above an existing stand to film a buddy's deer hunt. You should have at least one of these stands in your arsenal. They give you the ability to really move around, keep the deer guessing, and cover your hunting area. I also use this stand with the Lone Wolf ladder sticks in the place of a climbing tree stand. They all weigh about the same but with the ladder sticks I don't have to find a tree without low hanging limbs. Keep in mind that deer movement changes through out the phases of the rut. This stand can help you do the same.

You should already know this but I want to remind you to purchase a quality tree stand cable lock for your stands. I prefer the bicycle lock over the traditional padlock style. They can easily cut the padlock with bolt cutters but the bicycle style is much more difficult to get through. I engrave a number on all of my keys and the locks to keep them straight.

Stand locations- First, lets discuss how high you should hang your stand. You can only hunt at your best if you are comfortable with your set up and feel safe. This means staying within your comfort level. Maybe that is 10 feet or it could be 30 feet. You will have to decide for yourself. However, you must utilize a quality fall restraint device to keep you safe. You owe this to yourself and your family! No excuses!

If you shoot a recurve bow, I would suggest that you stay under 18'. However, if you shoot a compound bow you can go higher. My ladder stands range from 17-21'. My hang on stands are usually between 20-25'. I like to be high in the trees for a couple of reasons. I want the deer to have to look up high to see my silhouette. I want to stay out of their natural field of view. I also like to be high to stay in the upper wind thermals. They higher you are the harder it is for them to smell you. However, the higher you are, the steeper your shot angle, especially on close shots. Go up as high as your comfortable in the tree. I know many successful hunters that harvest deer in stands that are under 15'. In fact, one of the biggest deer I have ever seen, walked under my stand at 12' and never knew I was there. If I have my choice though, I will be sitting in the tree around 22'.

Stand placement- I like to hang stands around feeding areas, transition areas, and on the edge of bedding areas to cover all phases of the rut. I also like to have two different set ups based on wind direction. My pro dominant wind direction is out of the south. However, the November cold fronts come out of the north, so my stands are set up accordingly.

When I hang a stand I usually have someone with me. Before I trim in the shooting lanes I climb up in the tree and ask my assistant to walk the deer trails for me. This helps me to decide if the the stand is in the right location and where I should start trimming in my best shooting lanes. I want to be able to shoot the deer trails in all directions. Sometimes bucks will walk 10 yards downwind of heavily used deer trails, so make sure it is clear to shoot a little past the trail.

Don't forget to take a hard look at how you can slip in and out of your stand without bumping deer. Use vegetation, topography, creek bottoms, wind direction, etc. to help hide your approach. You can hunt a stand numerous times if the deer don't know when you are using it.

I hope this information helps you. I am still learning, so if you have something that works well for you that I didn't mention, please let us know. Go hang some stands. It's not too late.

(A) 14 Step Season Prep: Step 4- Post Season Scouting and Shed Hunting

Okay, so we have pulled down our stands or moved them to better locations. You have already initiated the scouting process. By using the knowledge that you learned last year, while sitting in last seasons stand locations, we have learned something more about deer movement. In Step #3 you should have scouted around your old tree stand locations to move the stand to a better tree or pulled the stand from an unproductive area. Now comes the time for exploration. I really enjoy scouting and shed hunting because they can tell me what I have been missing the previous season. So let's talk about both of these subjects and how they relate to each other.

1. Time to stir up the woods: Do you know where all of the bedding areas are on your property? Do you know where the trails are located that lead from bed to feed? Where are the transition areas that deer use to travel from bed to feed? Where are the buck staging areas located that deer use waiting to enter your food sources? Don't feel disappointed if you don't know the answer to all of these questions. However, you will be more successful and confident if you spend the time to research the answers. Now is the perfect time because there is no vegetation in the woods, the days are a little warmer, football season is over, and the NCAA basketball tournament is a few weeks away. Get outside and start walking, but don't just look for obvious deer trails. Let's discuss some of the things I try look for.

2. Feeding areas: This is always an easy place to start. Walk just inside the field edges and look for trails coming into the fields. Usually this will be on the inside corner of the field but walk the whole perimeter. Try to think like a deer and how they will access the field, feel the most comfortable eating out in the open, and where the best shadows will likely occur (deer feel safer eating in the shadows before dark). Tree stands in this area should be used primarily for early and late season when deer concentrate on food sources. However, you can also place observatory stands a safe distance to food sources so you don't tip deer off. There should be bedding areas in close proximity to the food source that deer will use once the vegetation returns. As you start working back into the woods, searching for bedding areas and transition areas, pay attention for other potential food sources. For example, if you find white oak trees clumped together on a ridge top, you have found an alternative feeding area.

3. Bedding areas: Where are the does and bucks likely to bed during the early season? As previously stated, they will not usually bed together but will both be in close proximity to the feeding areas. Concentrate on thick cover within a couple hundred yards of the the food sources. When it is hot in early season (September), deer usually don't travel far unless they are pressured. Mature bucks like to use ravines and creek bottoms because they generally stay cooler this time of year. Once you have located these areas, it is time to focus on the bedding areas that deer will use during the rut. I like to concentrate on thick bedding areas located further away from the food sources. I do this because once the vegetation is minimized, deer usually travel further to reach better bedding areas for security cover. These will be the bedding areas that does use once the leaves drop in the woods. Does also like these areas to hide from the constant buck harassment they encounter during the rut. A mature buck will be checking downwind of these bedding areas often. However, if you have something like a cedar thicket close to a food source, with very minimal pressure, you may have a great all season bedding area!

4. Transition areas: These are the areas that can be spectacular hunting areas because deer use them constantly. You can also usually slip in or out of these areas easily to access stand locations. This is where I like to concentrate my search while looking for heavily used trails. Once I have determined my regular food sources and bedding areas, I simply find the best intersection of trails that bring them together. I like to hunt transition areas most of the time for a couple of reasons. Transition areas keep you safely away from bumping deer in their bedding areas and don't alert deer to hunting pressure once they are out in the fields feeding. Yet, they still need the transition areas to get from point A to point B. Give these areas a try this season.

5. Staging areas: These areas are usually located 50-100 yards from the feeding areas. Mature bucks will usually use these areas waiting for the sun to go down before entering the fields. If the deer herd is pressured, all of them may browse in staging areas until night fall. Staging areas are excellent places for afternoon hunts, especially during early season. In fact, I feel more confident hunting mature bucks in staging areas instead of sitting over food plots. However, I have not experienced great success hunting staging areas in the mornings. If you have, I would like to hear about your experiences.

6. Shed Hunting: As you scout to learn your hunting property keep your eyes open for deer sheds. You never know where you will find them. I have found sheds in fields, CRP grass, bedding thickets and next to out buildings. Sheds can tell you what deer made it through the winter or what deer you have living on your property that your trail cameras missed. Although shed hunting is fun for me, I prefer to concentrate my time in the woods on learning how the deer live there. If I happen to stumble across a shed, that is just an added bonus. However, there are occasions that I strictly concentrate on shed hunting. My family loves to be outdoors. So, I can use this opportunity in the spring to take my family out in the woods and search for sheds. The kids love it, they get very excited and have a sense of accomplishment when they find a shed antler. To be honest, if things are slow shed hunting, sometimes I place previously found sheds ahead of my kids to make the trip more successful for them. When you have completed your shed hunts, try to match up the sheds and see if the same deer is living on your farm from last year. I know of two farmers that live a mile away from each other. They each found one side of shed antlers. A couple of years later, they were talking about the sheds they had each found (obviously belonging to the same deer). When they put each side together, they had the sheds scored, finding the deer would have scored well over 200". I saw these sheds personally and it is hard to describe the size of this rack. I wish I would have taken a picture of them.

7. Additional things to look for: If your hunting property has hills or varied terrain, you can use that to your advantage. Look for benches on the sides of ridges or saddles going over a ridge. The points of ridges are also excellent ambush locations. Also look for points extending out into fields. Regardless of terrain, you should also scout creek crossings, funnels, pinch points, tree lines, water sources and edges where the vegetation density makes a change. To learn more about topography, read Brad Herndon's book "Mapping Trophy Bucks".

So, get out in the woods by yourself for some scouting and with your family for some shed hunting. The deer have dropped their antlers and you can see a long ways in the woods. Scout and learn various aspects of your property. If you have a big farm or numerous farms, take notes after scouting so you don't forget any important details. Think about how you can make access to or from various tree stand locations when hunting bedding, transition, staging or feeding areas. Get on the inter-net and print off arial photographs of your hunting property. This will help to keep you oriented and clarify things on the property as you scout. Good luck and have fun!